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The Daisy Papers

A Baker's Investigation Into the Language of Starter Life
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Living Apothecary Series

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Part VI

Proteolysis: The Hidden Enemy of Open Crumb

Long before I ever learned the word proteolysis, my hands already knew something was wrong.

I just didn’t know what it was called.

The first time I noticed the problem was when I switched flours.

In the early days of baking, I used King Arthur Organic Bread Flour, which is still the flour I feed Daisy today. My loaves often include a second flour as well — usually an ancient grain like spelt or einkorn. These grains bring incredible flavor while still allowing a beautiful crumb.

But when I first began baking with King Arthur flour, I actually had the opposite problem from what I would later experience.

My dough was too tight.

Too elastic.

It resisted stretching.

At the time I did not realize it, but looking back now I suspect the starter I purchased from Breadtopia was probably very well balanced in its acidity when I first received it. That balance likely produced a dough that leaned toward strength and elasticity.

Unfortunately, my technique at the time was not developed enough to work with that strength.

Instead of learning how to transform that elasticity into extensibility during fermentation, I decided to experiment with a different flour.

That is when I began using Bob’s Red Mill Artisan Bread Flour.

And the change was immediate.

My dough suddenly became much more extensible.

⸻

Now, it would be easy to blame the flour alone for that change.

But baking is rarely that simple.

At the same time I switched flours, my experience was growing rapidly. I was baking almost every day. My hands were learning the dough. My understanding of fermentation was expanding.

So the difference I felt was likely a combination of both.

But one thing became very clear.

My dough now stretched much more easily.

And because the style of bread I was trying to master requires high hydration, that extensibility became very noticeable.

My dough is typically around 83% hydration, which is considered quite high. At that level the dough becomes fluid and responsive. It is more difficult to handle, but once you learn to read it, the feedback it gives your hands becomes very clear.

And what my hands were telling me was this:

My dough was often too extensible.

⸻

In bread baking there are two critical properties that must exist in balance.

Elasticity

The strength that pulls the dough back after stretching.

Extensibility

The ability of the dough to stretch without tearing.

For beautiful open crumb, these two forces must exist together.

Strength with stretch.

Too much elasticity and the dough refuses to expand.

Too much extensibility and the dough cannot hold the gas bubbles that create large alveoli.

That balance is everything.

And over time I realized my dough was leaning too far toward extensibility.

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The first place I felt it was during coil folds.

When I lifted the dough, it would stretch and stretch and stretch.

At first this felt exciting. Watching a dough extend nearly two feet above the bowl without tearing is a beautiful sight.

But eventually I realized something important.

Anything in excess is a sign of imbalance.

A dough that stretches endlessly but struggles to hold its shape is not strong enough to support the structure required for large gas pockets.

Another clue appeared shortly after folding.

If a dough is balanced, it will slowly relax outward over time.

But my dough often spread quickly across the bowl.

Within fifteen or twenty minutes it would already be reaching the edges.

That is a classic sign of excessive extensibility.

On the opposite end of the spectrum, a dough that remains in a tight ball for hours is overly elastic.

Balance lies somewhere between those two extremes.

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I also noticed the problem very early in the mixing process.

Almost immediately after adding the starter, during the first stretch and fold, the dough already felt too extensible.

At the time I could not understand why.

The dough had barely begun fermenting.

Why would it already feel so loose?

Looking back now, the answer seems obvious.

The starter itself was already weakened.

The extensibility was entering the dough from the very beginning.

But at the time I never suspected Daisy.

I assumed the problem must be my technique.

⸻

So I worked harder on the craft.

I added more folds to build strength.

I experimented with shaping methods.

I adjusted fermentation timing.

I pushed bulk fermentation farther and farther until the dough resembled a giant balloon — a stage that often produces the large alveoli I was seeking.

 

Sometimes those adjustments worked.

Sometimes they didn’t.

And that inconsistency became frustrating.

Some loaves were extraordinary.

Others were merely good.

The range of results often felt like four out of ten to ten out of ten.

And I could never fully explain why.

⸻

For a long time I believed the answer had to be somewhere in my technique.

So I continued experimenting.

Watching videos.

Reading what little information existed.

But most of my learning happened the old-fashioned way.

Hands in the dough.

Day after day.

Thinking.

Observing.

Trying to make sense of it.

⸻

Then one day, during my research into the biology of starters, I encountered the concept of proteolysis.

Proteolysis is the process where enzymes break down the proteins that form gluten.

And that process accelerates in acidic environments.

 

 

Suddenly everything began to connect.

Acidity plus time equals weakened gluten.

Weakened gluten equals excessive extensibility.

And excessive extensibility destroys the ability of dough to trap large gas bubbles.

In other words, the very structure required for open crumb was quietly dissolving before the dough even began its fermentation.

And that realization changed everything.

⸻

Before Daisy Madre appeared, I never would have believed that a starter could influence dough structure so strongly before the dough was even mixed.

I knew you could bake bread with a neglected starter pulled from the refrigerator.

But I never imagined that a well-fed starter — one that rose beautifully and looked healthy — could still carry enough acidity to weaken the dough from the very start.

Yet once I saw Daisy Madre, the difference became undeniable.

The dough felt stronger.

More elastic.

More capable of holding structure.

And suddenly my years of struggle began to make sense.

⸻

In that moment I realized something profound.

Mastery in bread baking is not about perfection.

It is about understanding.

It is about narrowing the range of outcomes so that your hands know what they are working with.

I do not expect to produce a perfect loaf every time.

That would remove the artistry from the craft.

But I do want to move my range from four out of ten to ten out of ten toward something closer to eight out of ten to ten out of ten.

And that level of consistency begins with the seed of the bread itself.

The starter.

Because without understanding the living system that begins the dough, everything that follows becomes guesswork.

And relying on luck has never interested me.

⸻

Starter Field Notes

Starter: Old Daisy (pre–Daisy Madre)

Hydration in dough: ~83%

Observation: dough excessively extensible early in fermentation

Surface clues: textured dome on starter, bubbles beneath surface

Likely cause: elevated acidity leading to mild proteolysis

Conclusion: starter balance influences dough structure from the very beginning of mixing.

 

 

 

I did not come here to persuade.
I came to share what I had learned,
and to leave the choosing in other hands.